1. Sand the floors and remove the old finish with sander going with the grain, corners should be done with a hand sander.
2. Pick out the nicks and gauges on the hardwood and remove them. 
3. Remove the moldings and trims. Also, dust and clean up the floors and walls.
4. Vacuum the flooring and right after with a tack cloth wipe was-impregnated piece cloth design to pick and hold residue. Use multiple cloths. 
5. Select the stain and apply 1 coat and another coat after the initial quote dries off. Generally, 4-5 hours of time is recommended.

AFTER YOU’VE COMPLETED ALL THE SANDING, PLEASE SELECT A SEALER 

floor finishing options
Type of finish depends on the kinda of finish look you want on the floor.

• Penetrating sealer: is a natural-looking finish that brings out the wood’s grain; however, it may darken over time. Penetrating sealer is less durable than polyurethane and is easier to the spot-repair. Penetrating sealer offers good protection, especially when waxed. 
• Varnish comes from matte to glossy finish. Varnish often gets darker with time. The rule is higher the gloss more durable the surface. 
• Polyurethane: can be oil- or water-based, Poly finishes are the most preferred stain for refinishing floors and are great for high moisture areas. Oil based and water based urethane floors will typically yellow more than the other finishes. and keep in mind polyurethane has more of a plastic look. However, if the finish gets nicked or gouged, it’s extremely difficult to spot-repair.
   

Tip: Try to sand and seal the floors in 24 hours, this will help prevent the wood surface from absorbing access moisture.